Adapted from the first couple chapters of Anthony Bourdain’s incendiary memoir Kitchen Confidential, the new biopic Tony, about the culinary iconoclast’s early years, could’ve been titled A Portrait Of The Chef As A Young Man. Instead of covering Bourdain’s entire life and career, most notably his rise to fame through foodie docuseries like No Reservations and Parts Unknown, director and co-writer Matt Johnson focuses specifically on a formative summer in his subject’s youth. Despite the limited scope, Johnson nonetheless captures Bourdain’s thorny essence better than the well-intentioned but messy documentary Roadrunner: A Film About Anthony Bourdain, made three years after his tragic death in 2018. It’s not a film that re-writes the book on biopics but as is, it’s a strong coming-of-age tale about a bold and brash brat who, to paraphrase the movie’s epigraph, “was badly in need of a good butt-kicking.”
On campus at Vassar College in 1975, 19-year-old Tony Bourdain (Dominic Sessa) pitches a prospective Kerouac and Orwell-inspired novel to a fellowship board that he’s confident will help fund his writing project. Even though he overestimates their enthusiasm, Tony’s still buzzy enough after the meeting to brag to his high school crush Nancy (Emilia Jones) that he’s on his way to become the next great American novelist. Even after he gets the call that he’s been passed over for the grant, he lies to his difficult-to-impress mom Gladys (Dagmara Domińczyk) about the opportunity and heads up to Cape Cod, where Nancy is working for the summer. When Tony makes it to Provincetown, the insouciant hooligan has next to no money and doesn’t even show his face to Nancy when it appears she has a boyfriend already.
Dejected, Tony wanders into seafood spot The Flagship and gulps down enough oysters and beers to make a pitiful pass at the waitress serving him. The restaurant owner (played by Antonio Banderas) throws him out when he can’t pay but after Tony follows him home like a lost puppy to crash on his hammock, the head chef takes him on as a dishwasher at the restaurant. Woken up by a bucket of cold water every morning, Tony earns his keep in the kitchen alongside similarly sophomoric staff Sal (Leo Woodall) and Stavros (Stavros Halkias) all summer long. He washed ashore as a writer but as weeks of observing cooks prepare dishes go by, Bourdain begrudgingly becomes more interested in making his way in the world as a chef.
Still best known for his breakout role in 2023’s The Holdovers, Dominic Sessa channels a similarly petulant energy here as he did in that new holiday classic about a boarding school student forgotten over winter break. Given that both take place in 1970s New England, Tony could be considered a summer-swept companion piece to Alexander Payne’s caustic but cozy film, with Antonio Banderas taking over the reluctant mentor role from Paul Giamatti. The biggest difference between the two comes down to Matt Johnson’s narrative proclivities, which aren’t as focused on a student-teacher dynamic and mirror the wing-it ethos of his flighty protagonist. Tony spends a fair portion of the story chasing after Nancy and going barhopping with Sal before settling on the worldly wisdom of the unnamed chef who took a chance on him. Sessa is a perfect fit for this role but Banderas is particularly exquisite as the film’s gentle center.
Following up on his Oscar-worthy work in One Battle After Another last year, cinematographer Michael Bauman gives Tony a distinct visual flavor both in and out of the busy kitchen where Bourdain cut his teeth all those years ago. There are beach-set sunset shots of a soul-searching Tony looking out at the waves that are simply the most gorgeous images I’ve seen on screen all year. But along with editors Curt Lobb and Robert Upchurch, Bauman crafts compelling montages that give us atypical glimpses into what makes Tony tick. Compared to the visual style, I wish Johnson and his three credited co-writers had applied a similar level of narrative invention to Tony, which still falls prey to several biopic tropes. It’s not the most unique dish out there but it’s well-plated and will fill you up just the same.
Score – 3.5/5
More new movies coming to theaters this weekend:
Insidious: Out Of The Further, starring Amelia Eve and Brandon Perea, is a supernatural horror sequel following a young mother raising her daughter in her childhood home who discovers she can travel into the Further, a purgatorial realm of lost souls.
Mutiny, starring Jason Statham and Annabelle Wallis, is an action thriller which finds a former special forces operative on the run as he works to uncover an international conspiracy after his billionaire industrialist boss is murdered in front of him.
Spa Weekend, starring Isla Fisher and Leslie Mann, involves three stressed-out friends who plan a quiet, luxury getaway in Palm Springs for pampering and relaxation but their peaceful trip is upended when their chaotic friend crashes the vacation.
Reprinted by permission of Whatzup